I emerged from Dublin airport
somewhat sorry for those that had sat near me on the flight from Edinburgh.
I had been travelling for around a month at this point - living out of my backpack and at times, the backs of cars, wearing and washing the same clothes in a veritable rotation of rudimentary laundry applications (aka hand washing in bottled water or a frigid mountain stream). I was indeed putting Icebreakers claim of their merino products being able to be worn for x amount of days without washing - but I was pretty sure I had moved beyond the point of no return, my clothes could quite possibly walk on their own they were so stiff with sweat and grime, from the last ten days of being in Scotland. Laundry doesn’t dry there - it just sort of loses moisture for a while….
First Impressions
Transitioning from the UK to the EU, you’d think you’d notice a stark difference, but as I plodded out of the airport, the English language was still the primary mode of communication, even if I could not understand the strong Dubliner accent. I hopped onto the budget city bus—only two euros—feeling like a sardine in a tin can, with my backpack practically claiming its own seat. I thought, “Maybe I should just start mailing things back to New Zealand.”
Disembarking in the centre of the city, quaint cobbled back streets smelled like stale urine, and dodgy looking characters leaned out of doorways, peering out. I felt a little unnerved. This wasn’t the Dublin I was expecting. I was expecting that somewhere in this I would recognise an anglo-saxon part of my gene pool, and that I would feel at least a little at home.
All I felt was even more grimy, cold and coffee-deprived.
The picturesque River Liffey
But as I crossed the picturesque River Liffey in search of coffee, I stumbled upon the raw vibe of the city.
Picture this: a man, clearly in his own world, was loudly airing grievances to an invisible lunch-time audience. With missing teeth and a face that looked like it had seen better days, he was doing a rather spirited dance of desperation, half-heartedly trying to hold up his sagging jeans. The locals gave him a wide berth, and I, too, felt a twinge of unease.
Was this the Dublin I’d been dreaming of?
Finding the Charm
Determined to uncover the city’s hidden gems, I checked into my budget accommodation—a run-down house near Dublin Zoo. My room was shared with two other girls, and while it lacked luxury, it boasted proximity to a massive park and a bus stop right outside. With a heart full of hope, I ventured back into the city.
Hundreds of Fallow Deer in Phoenix Park
And I am glad I did! The quirky vibe of Dublin began to unfold before me. I wandered through cobbled back streets (yes, they still smelled a bit like stale urine from the previous nights antics), but I also found vibrant street art that was truly worthy of admiration. The pubs were alive with laughter and music, where the air was thick with the aroma of hearty Irish fare.
Trinity College was a delight, in particular the library, and I found solace in the expansive Phoenix Park where Fallow deer roamed freely, as if they owned the place. I also paid a visit to the historic Kilmainham Gaol, which was equal parts fascinating and sobering.
Trinity College Library
Kilmainhom Gaol
And let’s not forget the coffee! After days of caffeine deprivation, I finally found a café that served a brew strong enough to revive my spirits.
Dublin Tips for the Adventurer
If you're planning your own escapade to Dublin, here are a few tips to maximize your experience:
Airport Transfers: Skip the pricey shuttles! For just 2 euros, the city bus will take you into the heart of Dublin. Just follow the signs and cross the road to find the bus stop.
Currency: Remember, the Euro is your friend here.
The River Liffey: This river divides Dublin into two distinct areas—explore both!
Dublin Zoo: Located next to a sprawling park, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Phoenix Park: Acres and acres of sprawling parklands. Great for walking or running, so lace up those sneakers!
Kilmainham Gaol: A must-see! Check for cancellations before you go, or book online.
Book of Kells: A bit overrated, if I’m honest. But the Trinity College Library? Absolutely stunning.
IMMA: The Irish Museum of Modern Art is free and fantastic.
Guinness Factory: I skipped it, but I hear it’s a classic Dublin experience.
Art and Culture: The older parts of the city are filled with quirky art stores and vibrant street art—worth wandering through.
Night Safety: The streets can get a bit dodgy after dark, so stick to well-lit areas, especially if you’re alone.
Watch Your Belongings: Pickpocketing can happen, so keep your bags close!
The Luas: A light rail system connecting some suburbs with inner Dublin
Dublin may have thrown me a few curveballs, but by the end of my visit, I had fallen in a little bit in love with its unique character. The blend of rough edges and warm hearts makes Dublin a truly interesting destination. So pack your bags, open your heart, and prepare to explore!