Looking at the wallpaper map of Scotland with Sam, all I could see was vast areas of the country I really wanted to see.
We discussed the merits of the Isle of Skye compared to going to hike Mt Suilven (a mere mound compared to the rest of Scotlands mountains, but one which had captured my attention since I saw its unique shape and interesting approach, in the movie ‘Edie’).
I figured I could NOT do both. God only knew I WANTED to do both!
We stared at the map, tracing the roads with our fingers, Sam pointing out places of interest and possible best routes. Well, Skye it was then. Suilven would have to wait until I came back another time. And I would be back an other time.
I felt slightly gutted, but knew to do this travel thing justice, I needed to slow down - especially in Scotland - but also excited because I knew it had captured me enough for me to want to come back.
Packing all my belongings into the car, I retraced my previous journey through to Glencoe, Fort William and up to the turn off to Inverness. I sat there tormented briefly.
I turned left.
Skye was waiting.
The road trip to this island linked by a massive bridge, is nothing short of utterly breath-taking.
The Skye bridge is an impressive structure which has opened the island up to people who shouldn’t actually be let loose on those tiny pot holed narrow roads. I seriously worried about the fancy BMW car I was swanning around in, with those low profile types not at all equipped for the things that pass as roads, on Skye.
Crossing that link from Western Scotland over to the Inner Hebrides island of Skye, is like steeping into another world.
Quaint lives here.
It possesses an almost Nordic feel, with all the houses (except for in Portree which does have some colour!), painted white, creating a poetic contrast against the vivid green landscape resplendent with dramatic oddly shaped mountains.
I had planned to hike to a Bothy (a basic shelter used by hikers in the Scottish back country - free of charge) for my first night on Skye, but arriving late, and in the rain, I opted instead for a small inlet where I could park the car in a narrow protected cove and pitch my tent.
The idea of waking up to a gorgeous sunrise, occupied my mind, and as I unwrapped my tent and then wrestled it against the ever-increasing gale force winds (and failed three times to get it to stay up), I bundled it all into the car, folded the back seats down, spread my sleeping bag out, said good night to the audience of sheep who had now gathered above me to watch the show in the fading light.
I slept like a log that night and unfolded myself to the same audience of sheep the next morning, as I took in the wonderful soft-lit views around me. Behind me was a glorious waterfall several terraces high that seemed to emanate from a pointed hill further beyond.
Skye is known for sheep, gin and surreal landscapes.
Small boutique distilleries - most notably in Portree - provide the purveyor some learning around the vital role a good quality tonic water plays in the experience of drinking this refreshing mix.
I purchased a small bottle from a tiny boutique distillery and promised myself it would make it back to Egypt in my luggage but it never made it beyond Scotland! (It WAS a small bottle ….). The wind remained, the rain persisted and the green became even more vibrant in the soft mossy countryside.
I wandered into the famous Fairy Pools; hiked the Quirang before sunrise (and stood in awe of the steep cliffs and curious rocky surrounds) and hiked around the Old Man of Storr area.
The Fairy Pools
The brooding Cuillin range is accessed in Glenbrittle, a large glen with the river Brittle leisurely wending its way out towards the sea lock of Loch Brittle.
Loch Brittle
I was determined (despite the drizzle) to hike into the Cuillin Range and up to a tarn (Coire Lagan) I had seen on the map, accessed near the Glenbrittle campground (where I had successfully pitched my tent without it being grabbed by the wind).
The trail was accessed behind the campground, with a bit of solid effort required for the first part as it begins with a demanding climb of over 550 metres. It is well worth the effort to reach Coire Lagan lochan which sits in one of the most spectacular Cuillin corries. Once here I took stock of my surroundings and drank in the tranquility of the place while peering up at the arresting rock faces of the Black Cuillin Mountains.
Awesome walking over several hours and the bonus of a much appreciated and well-poured flat white in the camping ground cafe upon my return - always soothing after a cold raw, gritty day.
Gorgeous stonewalled farms littered the landscape some of which were still in use demonstrating how this volatile environment could be lived with despite the bleak surroundings.
I felt a sense of sadness as I crossed the bridge back to the mainland - a sort of demarkation of a timeless land that the rest of Scotland had left behind.
On my way back to Newtyle I stopped in the pouring rain, and photographed the famous Eileen Donan Castle which is possibly one of the most stunning settings for the classic castle I that I had seen outside of Switzerland Germany or Austria.
The beautiful Eileen Donan Castle.
Eilean Donan is a small tidal island situated at the confluence of three sea lochs (Loch Duich, Loch Long and Loch Alsh) , about 1km from the village of Dornie. It is connected to the mainland by a footbridge that was installed early in the 20th century and is dominated by the picturesque castle which was built in the thirteenth century; it became a stronghold of the Clan Mackenzie and their allies, the Clan MacRae.
Scotland is proof that fairytales really do exist.
I left this part of Scotland with the feeling that I had to come back.
A marooned old boat