Perched on the hills high above the Lyttleton Harbour
in Banks Peninsula,
(Sign of the ) PackHorse Hut is a grand old stone reminder of simpler times in days gone by.
This hut was originally designed as part of a series of ‘rest houses’ and was built by Harry Ell for an intended summit route from Christchurch to Akaroa. Four houses were built as part of this project - all in local stone, including the grand ‘Sign of the Takahe’. The Sign of the Packhorse, Sign of the Bellbird (1914) and Sign of the Kiwi (1917) were designed by Samuel Hurst Seager, one of the earliest architects to move away from historical styles, instead seeking out New Zealand character, through use of stone. The summit route on this side of Banks Peninsula, never happened.
Packhorse Hut is an ickonic addition to the profile of the hills in this area.
Packhorse Hut is one overnight option on the Te Ara Pātaka Track - a 35 km route which links Gebbies Pass in the Lyttelton crater to Hilltop in the Akaroa crater. It follows a long high ridgeline that includes Mount Herbert/Te Ahu Patiki, the highest point on Banks Peninsula. The Department of Conservation brochure on this hike, suggests two and a half days to complete. Packhorse Hut, however, is an easily accessible, under three hour walk in from Gebbes Pass (allow 1-3 hours) and makes for an attractive overnight destination for families or people seeking a mini-adventure close to the city.
I was lucky enough to find myself alone at Packhorse Hut
in a mid-walk wander up onto the ridge, where I also explored further along the trail towards Mt Herbert.
The hut was well-stocked with firewood, and had the latest upgraded mattresses which I have learnt from experience, can be the difference between a good and bad nights sleep!
I have been wanting to spend a night in this hut , for sometime, having wandered by it on numerous occasions previously. Even though it is not a track one would consider challenging, from Gebbes Pass, it is scenic and pleasant - providing wide views of the Lyttleton Harbour. I also knew that once on Kaituna Pass, I would have three options for further exploration, plus a clear sky that night with the promise of some star gazing (although it was a bright moon!).
The evening came in chilly after an incredibly stunning golden hour, throwing hues of yellow and orange across the countryside and I lit the fire, spending a stunning few hours by fire light, on my own, gazing out over the lights of Governors Bay, pinching myself that I was so lucky to have the hut completely to myself.
That night I dragged a mattress into the dining area and plonked it in front of the fire. I was as happy as the proverbial ‘pig in sh*t’. I spent some time pointing my camera at the sky, up early the next morning to catch the first rays of the new day; up before the sheep, who sat eyes shut, scattered around the hut like big white cushions.
Warm hues start the day with first light draping across the Port Hills
Options for descent
included going back the way I had come, to Gebbes Pass (I had been dropped off and would be picked up); going via Mt Herbert shelter back to Diamond Harbour (about 6 hours and a route I had walked a couple of years back) or heading down the Faulkner Track to Tablelands then through to Orton Bradley Park. I chose the latter. This feeder track took me under two hours to descend and included farmland and some short bush sections, all the while with fantastic views across to Lyttleton, with a feeling I was wandering through Australia or even Africa, when I glanced up at the towering rock cliffs above me..
What a brilliant way to introduce children to the wonders of tramping,
by taking them in and out from Gebbes Pass or the Kaituna Valley (a steeper ascent), and into Packhorse Hut for a night in a bunk bed. One day I will go back and walk the entire spine of this peninsula from Gebbes to Hilltop, but in the meantime, my bucket was filled - a home away from home, in the hills, with beautiful views, a warm fire, a comfy bed, an empty hut; a sunset, sunrise and the chance to see the stunning Mars, Jupiter and Venus in a line, before the suns rays kissed the Port Hills. What more could a girl want.
Getting there:
Gebbes Pass - 5.8 km. There is a parking area at the top of the pass, this however, is prone to car break-ins on a regular basis. If parking here it would be wise to open your glove box and empty everything from it; not leave anything of any value in the car and activate a car alarm if there is one.
Kaituna Valley - 4.2 km. Safer parking than Gebbes Pass. Steeper track than from Gebbes and stream crossings required after rain.
Faulkner/Tablelands - 7.1 km. Parking at Orton Bradley Park with a charge. Steep in places; chance of walking through stock is high. Narrow and rocky when near the end.
The hut costs $15 per night for an adult and is booked online through the Doc Website. It has firewood; a toilet; a bunkroom for 9; a water tank and a large eating table.
Cosy and warm in the main room with the fire roaring on a chilly later autumn evening..