The crunch of snow under my feet was a familiar and joyful sound
as I made my way slowly along-side the marker poles directed towards Big Hut. Perched at 1325m on the plateau of the Rock and Pillar range near Middlemarch in Otago, this hut dates back to the mid-sixties when it enjoyed notoriety for being the biggest (70 beds) and coldest ski hut based near Dunedin. It is no longer a ski hut and 40 of the beds are locked away, but it still provides an excellent base for ski-touring up on the flats of the range, which go for miles. It even boasts a full-sized ping-pong table and solar lights (even if they glow barely brighter than a candle), which makes for essential evening activity in order to keep warm, especially if staying during winter! I knew what I was in for, and came prepared with a hot water bottle ...
What this night away in an old cold ski hut did for me though, aside from send me back to Dunedin exhausted after two days of hiking and snow skills training, was a re-set. After a busy and tiring couple of weeks, I needed to get outside my head and be in the moment for a change. Being in the outdoors is the avenue for me, to be in this space. I need it.
Something happens; I slow right down; the temporal experience of exisitng in a space devoid of noise, stress and an urbanesque environment, is heightened. I feel my body exhaling. The big sigh.
That night I took my camera out into the sub-zero temperatures and blinding wind, to gaze at the big sky outside Big Hut. The Milky Way was cranking - popping out boldly from a crystal clear black night - no moon; Mars keeping it company. I could not feel my fingers; I could not operate the camera, but I took pot luck and aimed upwards.
There it was - that incredible core of matter - still possessing the ability to make me gape in wonder. I felt very small outside Big Hut, under big sky.
A week later I was on the Kepler Track in Fiordland.
My pack was fairly light - enough for an overnight to Luxmore Hut- but as I plodded away up the track, it felt cumbersome and heavy. I was tired - yet again - after another crazy week at work. Needing to get outside my head and away from the madness, I escaped again to the hills. I even took my hot water bottle anticipating a cold night - I wasn't wrong.
Luxmore Hut sits at 1085m above the South Fiord of Lake Te Anau and has the most spectacular view across a myriad of mountain peaks I have ever seen in New Zealand. It is the first hut of three on the Kepler circuit if starting at the Control Gates carpark. Luxmore Hut is large and as it is on a Great Walk circuit, it becomes extremely busy during the on-season. As I walked above the tree line and caught my first glimpse of the impressive mountains, I was simply not prepared for the beauty of this area. There is 360 degrees of mountains visible from the tops as you head towards Luxmore Hut. It is breath-taking. Again - the exhale as I re-confirmed with myself why I had driven four hours in order to walk for three.
I arrived to an empty hut and therefore my choice of bunks. As it was mid afternoon and I had made the walk up two hours quicker than the suggested walking time, I decided to head further up the track, towards Mt Luxmore. There was not much snow around the hut, but just beyond, it picked up and within a few hundred meters, I was walking in shin-deep snow. This changed rapidly to knee-deep and before long I was unable to continue as the marker poles completely disappeared. There are ten avalanche paths between Luxmore Hut and Iris Burn Hut, and I was not willing to go any further that day. By the time I got back to the hut two hours later, there were twelve other trampers there - all tourists.
It is a funny thing being in a hut with other people. Some talk, some do not. I was not in the mood for talking - I am a professional talker - it is what I do for my job. I sat alone, ate alone and tried to generally give off the vibe that I was to be left alone ... thanks.
I did end up talking for a long time, however, to other photographers there to capture the incredible views and also ventured out with them for some astro later that evening (sadly lack of tripod and freezing cold temps did me no favours!). We sat and talked about the spectacular places New Zealand has on offer to walk and see and be amongst. I felt blissfully appreciative and happy; peaceful; quiet and renewed.
Another big hut; big sky and a big sigh.
Getting away, for a brief sojourn such as this, is essential if like me, you need to be away from people in order to re-set and re-new some depleted energy. Even though the walk up to Luxmore Hut was not what I would call physically demanding, it was enough to cause me to slow right down when carrying a pack. That slowing down makes me feel every ache and pain but it also forces me to be totally in the moment.
I notice things around me; the smells, sounds, colour. I gain a sense of clarity. My self-talk becomes more positive. I feel the cloud lifting.
This is my medicine.
